Our last day in Rome starts at the Galleria Borghese, a private collection of paintings, sculptures, and antiquities. Although in these last five months, I have been to many a museum, I still do not consider myself a museum person. That said, the Galleria Borghese is only two floors with about ten manageably sized rooms on both. We make a reservation for a two hour slot to view the museum, we are allowed in right on time, and then shewed out after the two hours. And although the museum may not be enormous, the quality of the art and the artists that are featured in the collection rival or exceed any of the larger exhibitions that I’ve visited. With its entire room full of Caravaggios to Raphael’s “Entombment of Christ” to its many Bernini sculptures, every room provides an intimate experience with some of the world’s best works, and because the museum is entered on a reservation basis, no single room is ever over-crowded. Picking a favorite work is a challenge, but I would probably choose Bernini’s “Apollo and Daphne”. This along with so many of the other statues were brought to life by the very well narrated audio tour, which clearly articulates how to appreciate each work. The gallery’s manageable size, incredible art, and overall intimate feel makes for one of my favorite museum experiences of my trip.
The Meta Church
Rome is old
Rome is new
It’s tale’s fold
As times flew
By this time of the family vacation in Rome, there is a clear morning routine of showering, breakfast, commenting on how lucky we are about the perfectly cool weather, and so on. For breakfast, Julie, I, sometimes George, and sometimes Mom would go to a nearby cafe for dopios and pastries. The dopios we drink immediately and then we return to the apartment with the pastries soon after.
After we figure out a way for all of us to get out of the apartment close to on time, we again meet up with Alessio to tour around ancient Rome. The idea that these monuments are more than two millennia old takes a little time to register. In California, if there is a building that is more than two centuries old, it is considered ancient; however that designation requires another order of magnitude of years in Rome. The coliseum, the pantheon, and the forum are in such good condition despite their age, many still stand tall. Because the factor of safety in those buildings’ columns is high, the main thing missing from them are materials that have now been “recycled” around Rome in palaces, homes, and the Vatican just to name a couple.
After a morning filled with Rome’s antiquities, we explore the Basilica of Saint Clement, which I have renamed Rome’s meta church because it is a church made of churches. The structure is three-tiered with each tier serving as a religious building in its time. The bottom tier was home to Roman nobleman with rooms set aside for worship. The middle tier was a 4th century basilica. And the top tier, built around the year 1100 is St. Clement’s Basilica. This is the clearest demonstration that we see during our time of Rome that Rome is a city of layers that have been built on top of each other over the ages.
Palazzo Colonna and the Villa Medici
I have spent a fair amount of time in Rome over the last month, but it is not until today that I realize what I may have been passing on the street. Behind closed windows and plain facades, some of these buildings house ornate rooms with invaluable art collections.
Today, we tour the Palazzo Colonna and Villa Medici with Filippo, a fabulous guide introduced to me by Gabe. The Palazzo Colonna is in central Rome and has belonged to the Colonna family for about 900 years. In that long history, the Colonna family had a Pope (Martin V) as well as many distinguished family members. Every generation, the family picks four individuals to reside in the house and monitor its upkeep, and to their credit, the current condition of the palace is immaculate.
We walk through the Colonna Art Gallery, which is a series of rooms that grow in grandness as the tour progresses. The last room can only be described as overwhelming. The art, the furniture, the marble statues, the frescoed ceilings, and the chandeliers all create this masterpiece that is the final room of the art gallery. This gallery is considered one of the largest private art collections in Rome.
After a short walk through the streets of Rome, we arrive at Villa Medici. The Villa Medici is now property of the French State and houses the French Academy in Rome, which is used as a home for winners of a prestigious art prize. The villa’s gardens and especially the view they provide of Rome will be my lasting memory from this visit. Standing literally on the edge of the city, all of Rome is presented before us and we start to piece together all the different sites we had thus far seen. Not only is today’s tour beautiful in its own right, Filippo and the sites we walk through help provide a context for the rest of our adventures in this historied city.
I also cannot forget to at least quickly mention that Charlotte decided to join us for today’s adventures. At the young age of only 10 months, she also seemed to enjoy herself when she wasn’t hungry or tired. Italians love their bambinos (babies), and this was made obvious on several occasions by how the rest of us were treated when accompanied by our newest family member. Navigating through the supermarket was easier, finding places to sit was easier, getting attention in almost every endeavor was easier. Charlotte, after all, is pretty cute with all her waving, clapping, humming along cobblestones, and giggling.
The Vatican
Although in my previous visits to Rome I had been staying just outside the walls of the Vatican, I did not previously venture inside knowing that I would be doing so with my family. As per usual, I navigate the family to the meeting point with our guide, Alessio. One big advantage of having a guide is that we get to hop into a much smaller and a much faster queue to enter the Vatican Museum. Because it is the last week of July and therefore the peak of the tourist season, the regular museum queue stretches around the block, past the corner, and then through a piazza.
The Vatican Museum can easily be overwhelming as there are so many “important works” to see. Even if one just wanted to see the highlights, there are so many pieces that can be considered highlights to make that an almost insurmountable task. Initially, our guide indicates that we should skip the painting gallery and go straight to the sculptures. However, my dad convinces Alessio to quickly run us through it and they compromise that Alessio will point out one, maybe two very beautiful, very influential paintings. We enter the gallery, and only describing two paintings is impossible because part of the beauty of the paintings is understanding it in context and seeing what came before and what has come after. Because it seems that many visitors skip the paintings, the family has quality one-on-one time with Raphael’s “Transfiguration”, possibly his last painting. We will later see this same image in St. Peter’s Basilica except that there it is done as an intricately designed mosaic. In fact, the mosaic is so intricate that it is only obvious it is not a painting from a foot away.
One unexpected highlight of the day for many of us is the Gallery of Maps. The gallery includes topographical maps of all of Italy, and they were painted directly on the walls back in the 16th century. The hall is still one of the world’s largest pictorial map collections. We all are map people, a trait that is either genetically or environmentally acquired from our dad; therefore, this hall, which receives less recognition than the other exhibits, is a wonderful surprise. In addition, I have to at least mention that the Sistine Chapel was breathtaking, the frescoes brilliant, and the marble and art exquisite throughout.
As with any guided tour, a big component to the success of the activity depends on the quality and character of the guide. Alessio does a very good job, and we enjoy that he is also a real life caricature of a “suave” Italian. He knows all the guards at the Vatican, which we later learn is because he was once a guard there himself. He wears a nice yet very casual button down shirt with its sleeves rolled up and the two top buttons left undone. He carries a brown leather messenger bag, rolls his own cigarettes on the go, and has a witty response to most questions. In addition, he is knowledgeable about the art, the artists, and the sites and all of their significance. His friendliness with the guards also pays dividends as he is able to give us a little extra time in areas to grab a group photo and he is able to convince a guard to keep a Sistine Chapel side door open long enough so that we can appreciate the private rooms located behind them. By the end of the long morning, we all feel very satisfied about our Vatican Museum experience.
The New Modern Italian Style of Cooking
Appetizers:
Filangee of Carrots in white balsamic vinegar with black sesame seeds
Pancetta stuffed with prunes in Negroamaro wine sauce
First course:
Tagliolini with Guanciale and filangee of Roman zucchini on yellow pumpkin sauce
Second course:
Veal and pork “Straccetti” in the Pizzaiola style
Eggplant a la “Parmigiana”
Desserts:
Ricotta cheese mousse with Amaretta in “Nectarina” Peach sauce
Wines:
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene DOCG (Veneto)
Primitivo del Salento, Manduria IGT (Puglia)
Muscat de Samos AOC (Greece)
After a relaxing first day in Rome allowing us all to adjust to the time difference and catch up on sleep where our main activities are eating and visiting the Trevi Fountain not far from the apartment, we were ready for a little more adventure on day two.
The most repeated phrase of the day is that we are practicing “the new modern Italian style of cooking.” The theme of this style is to make a healthier version of traditional Italian dishes without sacrificing taste. My brother-in-law, George is most skeptical that such a feat is possible. He cringes as he watches our teacher, Chef Stefano, pour the extra grease from the guanciale down the drain.
Although we only sign up for a half day of cooking, our lesson lasts until after 3:00pm. We alternate all day between cooking, eating, cooking, and eating. And when we eat, each course is substantial enough to be its own meal. The filangee of carrots (a.k.a. bed of carrots) in the appetizer would be enough to fill anyone of us up. But this does not stop Shana’s sweet tooth from downing three portions of dessert. The combination of eating and jet lag make some of us quite tired. We all start off really strong as active participants and asking a lot of questions, but by the end, all we can do is eat and laugh. I feel the more tired we got, the more we laughed. The meal was delicious and as a family activity, cooking was a great choice.
The Reunion
Many moons have passed
With much happening anew
Since we had all amassed
But now to Rome we flew.
Early in the morn we start
We’re on the road by six
So that for Rome we can depart
Where we’ll meet the other kids
Tourists and cobble stones
In a city hard to navigate
Leave us with a few unknowns
But to our place we go straight.
The rest have all arrived
With smiles and spirits high,
The journey they survived
Though not yet looking spry.
A nap is needed first
Followed by some food
And in Rome we’re immersed
All in a good mood.
Then gelato is activity one
So we venture from our home
Because the cold treat is so fun
And we’re finally all in Rome.
Traveling with Parents
There were a couple changes, in no particular order, that I experienced when traveling with my parents:
- Bedtime moves to 10:30pm
- Nicer meals
- More map folding
- Automatic shifting rental car
- More talk about grandchildren
- Nicer accommodations
- Greater patience needed
- Increased planning
- Good meal conversation
- Never missing breakfast
A Little Luccan Relaxation
A little shopping, a little eating, a little resting, a little writing, and a little reading, all followed by dinner at the apartment and a choral performance in the evening. Now that we are on our last day in Lucca, we can confirm that the apartment where we spent the week worked very well. We all felt comfortable with its two bedrooms, two bathrooms, living/dining room, enclosed patio, small yet functional kitchen, and washing machine. And the wifi works great, so there was little to complain about. We are located near Lucca’s famous wall, and would use said wall to walk to dinner or post-dinner performances. Free parking wasn’t far away and although we were not allowed to park within the city’s walls, we wouldn’t have wanted to anyway. Our “small” car was not small enough for some of the so-called two way roads in the old city.
Usually around this point of a vacation, and by that I mean a time when one activity is coming to an end, my mom focuses on the highlights of the last activity. This, of course, was before Charlotte. In Italy especially, it is probably inappropriate to redefine BC as Before Charlotte, but luckily BCE, a more neutral term, can also apply when taking into account the baby’s whole name. Ever since the family transition from BCE to CE, the mode of thinking, the topics of conversation, and the usage of online video chat have all undergone substantial changes. And they are changes for the better! Back to the topic of missing our week end’s debriefing, we are mostly focused on tomorrow’s plan to get to Rome, find the apartment, return the car, and meet up with the rest of the family. There are some logistics to take care of; however, we are all excited to be entering phase two of Italian Family Vacation.
Summer Festival – Lucca 2011
Like Perugia and like Spoleto and like probably many other small towns throughout Italy, Lucca hosts a summer music festival complete with big name artists. This summer, some of the names that Lucca is or has already hosted includes Elton John, Liza Minnelli, Arcade Fire, Ben Harper, and James Blunt. Timing worked out that we are able to watch J. Blunt. The concert was fun, the music singable, and the crowd energized, but equally impressive to all of that is the setting. Located in the heart of the old town in Piazza Napoleone, this festival transforms a piazza in a town that used to be a Roman colony in 180 BC into a modern theater. Blunt’s song “You’re Beautiful” should be directed at the town, at the piazza, and at the entire surreal setting.
Tuscany Driving, Part II
Our first destination today is Pisa, where I have the chance to revisit its famous leaning tower. Soon after arriving, the sky opens up and it starts to pour. We avoid some of the rain in shops and some more with a cafe dopio. It does eventually begin to clear and the sun even shows itself. The area around the tower, duomo and chuch is a zoo– the zoo’s animals beings tourists and the cages being ropes. Although not long after my last visit just a couple weeks ago, being back in Pisa feels a little like walking around my college campus well after graduation. I am there in a new context, with new people, with new goals, and places with attached memories seem changed. I enjoy being back, but everything seems strangely familiar. After all, I was only there for 24 hours the time before. Pisa is our main stop of the day, but we still have more of Tuscany to see before returning to Lucca.
Our next stop is the Marina di Pisa, a small town on the water that is logically close to Pisa. The town feels like it used to be a hotter vacation spot than it is today, and in fact, the town was mostly built in the late 1800’s and then more in the 1930’s. That said, our quick visit is not the best judge of Marina di Pisa’s popularity because the wind is strong, the sky is still cloudy, and the temperature isn’t warm. People may be hiding from the elements. After Pisa, we do a drive through of Tirrenia and a gelato stop in San Giuliano Terme. San Giuliano Terme, according to Frommer’s, is a reminder of the 18th and 19th century golden age, when its hot springs were renowned throughout Europe and drew some famous visitors. Today’s drive features more windy mountain roads, more tunnels, and more bridges, picturesque enough to encourage me to try to snap a couple photos from behind the wheel.