Category: People

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El Tatio Geysers

A 4am alarm is never pleasant, but alas, we want to see the Tatio Geysers at sunrise and doing so necessitates an early wake-up.  We are picked up by Mauricio, the same guide from Cosmos Andinos, who toured us around yesterday, and the whole bus minus the driver proceeds to fall asleep until we arrive at the geysers two hours later.  When we arrive, the temperature is well below freezing and thus a bit uncomfortable, but the excitement helps us warm up.

The scenery again is other-worldly, and we end up reflecting the landscape’s energy as we run around taking pictures of each other and of the geysers.  For the rest of the bus, I feel that both the geysers and our group serve as two forms of morning entertainment.  Whether it is one of my friend’s rabbit shaped beanie, all of us taking ridiculous silhouette photos in front of the geyser’s mist, or just the fact that we are constantly out of breath because we’re running around at 4000 plus meters, we are a bit of a spectacle.

Before returning home and stopping every couple minutes for a photo opportunity, we try the nearby hot springs as the outside temperature begins to warm up.

 

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Atacama Adventure Lodge

Our accommodations while in San Pedro de Atacama come complete with a “wellness center”, wood-stove-heated Jacuzzi, and small swimming pool for Hydrogym activites.  Meals are served in a centrally located kitchen around a communal table that is shared by other guests at the Lodge.  Our first dinner, as an example, is shared with a Brazilian family and an Irish couple on their honeymoon.  The five of us are staying in a separate house with its own bathroom and slightly cramped quarters, but still a homey environment nonetheless.

Other than the owner of the lodge seeming to be slightly frustrated that we did not book any of our Atacama activities through her because she was adding a pretty premium to all prices, the staff, the room, and even the wood-stove-heated Jacuzzi made for a very pleasant stay while in San Pedro.

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Funnier with Hindsight

Remember the time we woke up at 3am in the morning to drive to Santiago to catch an early flight that we didn’t have legitimate tickets for?  Remember then how when we finally did secure some reasonably priced new tickets, we had to be shuttled through the airport because we were now cutting it close to check our baggage and get on the flight?  Remember later how we decided to go on a tour until 9pm and then got a bit turned around in the pitch-black desert before finding our way back to the lodge?

When the five of us reconvene after the trip, I’m confident that this will make for a great story, but as we were living it, it lacked some of the comedy that it will probably have in the future.

The day, however, wasn’t without its silver linings.  We still did get reasonably priced round-trip airline tickets to Calama, which is only a one-hour drive from our final destination of San Pedro de Atacama.  We arrived at our lodge without too many adventures, had some lunch, took a nap, and set off for our first desert adventure.  And in the evening, we made it back to our lodge just in time for dinner, enjoyed a nice meal, showered, and slept very well.

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The Hamptons of Chile

Zapallar and its neighboring towns to the south feel like the Chilean version of the villages and hamlets on the South fork of Long Island, New York.  Not that I’ve ever been to the Hamptons, but based on my extensive television viewing, this seems to fit most of the stereotypes of that region.  The homes are extravagant, built into hillsides, and accessorized with their own elaborate swimming pools, expansive driveways, and umbrella-covered patios.  The beaches are full of teenagers summering at their parents second home.  Some of these kids have guitars, some have braces, some have paddleball equipment, and they all have immaculate tans.  White summery dresses can be seen a plenty and the alcohol and marijuana are ubiquitous.  The cars are all upscale, the restaurants all a bit expensive, and there are few views of the ocean that are unimpressive.

One morning, we venture away from our Hotel Isla Seca to explore a nearby Expo entitled La Feria boutique del verano (The boutique summer fair) in a beach town just a couple kilometers south called Cachagua.  The price of admission buys us free tastings of champagne, beer, cheeses, and other delectable foods.  The local attendees of this summer fair are dressed stylishly from head to toe, and each brand is represented by very attractive Chileans.  The fair is complete with a fashion show runway, massage booths, and new car raffles.

Other than the locally famous seaside restaurant of El Chiringuito in Zapallar, the small town has little to offer in the way of food and we were forced to venture slightly farther south to find more options.   Thus, we pretend to be part of the Chilean elite by hopping from town to town along this stretch of Chilean coast.  Along with Zapallar and Cachagua, we visit Maitencillo, where we enjoy our first night’s dinner at Puntamai.

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Descansamos

Most of our time in and around Zapallar is spent in a mode that is almost too relaxing.  I know that vacations are supposed to be restful, but I have been trained to try to pack each day of travel with activity when in a new place.  Therefore, on this trip, one way that I am attempting to step outside of my comfort zone is try to feel not only okay but to feel good about spending days lounging on the beach and by the pool while occasionally moving to find food or drinks.  I am embracing reading my current book titled “By Night in Chile” by Chilean author Roberto Bolaño.  I am relishing the opportunity to people-watch while lying on the beach.  And I am taking advantage of the opportunity to better get to know my travel companions.

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Casablanca Valley Wine Tasting

Chile is full of vineyards, and today we decide to explore the Casablanca Valley, which is nestled between Valparaiso and Santiago.  The varietals that appear frequently throughout our tastings include Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay among the whites, and Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Chilean specific Carmenere for the reds.  Our first stop, which also includes a great lunch, is at Viña Casas del Bosque.  We then make our way through three more wineries before the end of the afternoon, including Emiliana Organic Vineyards, Viña Indomita, and Viña Mar.  We break up our tastings with card playing, joke telling, and a little Facetiming.

We later stop in Valparaiso for some afternoon tea and juice before heading to Oda Pacifico, a wonderful restaurant looking over much of the city.  Getting to the restaurant is a bit of an adventure because of the layout of the city, its steep hills, and its narrow streets.  I explain to many navigators in the car that I think we are approaching a dead end, and although in one occasion I am correct, on another occasion, the road continues at what seems like a 60-degree slope, which I had inaccurately thought was impassible.

As we head back to our hotel in Zapallar, we look back on our day filled with multiple types of terrain covered, many wines tasted, and a beautiful dinner shared together.

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Evan & Camila

This is a powerful yet short love story between Camila, a Chilean stable girl and Evan, a Clark Kent doppelgänger.  Evan looks over the Maipo Gorge just outside a horse stable and stares longingly at the vastness and beauty of the Chilean landscape.  Camila is caring for the horses and thinks she hears a noise outside.  She peaks over the wood fence and immediately wishes she can be the Lois Lane to this Clark Kent who is not even aware of her presence.  Evan now also hears something behind him and turns, but just before he can see Camila, she looks away.

They both now sense each other’s presence, but are currently performing the famous dance of pretending not to be aware of the other.  Camila now confidently exits the stable with two horses in tow and the two lock eyes for the first time.  Superman cracks a smile causing Lois to blush a little.  Evan, in broken Spanish, asks if she is going to ride, and Camila smiles and asks if he wants to join.  Evan answers with a cool yes, all the while not being over-enthusiastic about the opportunity to join her.

Camila leads, Evan follows and they ride for about half an hour with only few words shared.  Eventually, they arrive at their destination.  A fresh water stream glistening over colorful stones making for the perfect ambience for the two of them to share a moment upon its rocks.  Evan’s hand gently passes by Camila’s and they both immediately look towards each other.  Evan pulls his hand back just in time for Camila to reach for it.  Camlia leans in and gives a gentle kiss on Evan’s unshaven cheek.  Evan smiles and they both soak up their surroundings as if they have no other worries in the world.

From here, the story continues just as if the two were in fact Superman and Lois Lane minus the bad guys and the red and blue tights.  The two continue on happily in their Smallville-like existence in the Chilean countryside.

There is no reason why fairytales can’t come true.

 

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Tel Aviv, Then Cali

Our layover in Tel Aviv is about seven hours, so we decide to enter into the city for a walk and some dinner before continuing on to Los Angeles.  We find a great spot called the Social Club where we split several appetizers and enjoy a couple cocktails.  Upon returning to Tel Aviv Ben Gurion Airport, we again get asked the usual questions including the purpose of our visit to Israel, if we have family living in Israel, what synagogue we belong to, if we speak Hebrew, and all the questions about our bags being in our possession since we packed them.

The quick fifteen-hour flight home involves a little more stretching than I had hoped.  I sit on the aisle next to two very friendly Jewish grandparents.  Before we even took off, I see pictures of all their grandchildren and learned what everyone was up to and where they were all living.  The one trait many grandparents share that concerns me is their relatively small bladders, and this fear was realized as I get up over at least a dozen times to let them reach the bathroom.  But alas, I am able to get some sleep on the plane and the fifteen hours don’t last as long as they could have.

I am now sad that the trip has come to an end, but I am also happy that I had this chance to spend time with my dad while exploring a new part of the world.

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Onwards to Zim

What are the chances that I run into my old roommate Punit at Gate A23 in Jo-burg Airport, South Africa?  Relatively high considering we planned to do so.  His flight from JFK is a bit delayed making the meet-up slightly more stressful as he appears just ten minutes before the gate closes.

The next couple days I will stay with Punit and his family in Harare, Zimbabwe (“Zim” for short).  As soon as we land in Harare, it is obvious that we are no longer in South Africa.  The runways are shorter, the planes fewer, and the tourists not as plentiful.  We purchase visas, run into a little excitement with our bags, and are greeted by Punit’s family.

After a drive through Harare’s potholed and people-filled streets, we arrive home, an area of quiet and comfort.  Punit’s grandparents greet me, and then soon after putting our bags down, we are offered food.  Food becomes a theme to my stay in Zimbabwe as it is abundant, different from what I’m used to, and delicious.

Within the first hour of landing in Zimbabwe, I am confident that my short stay in this land-locked country will be unforgettable.

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The Garden Route

On our way from the Western Cape to the Eastern Cape, we make sure to stop at some of the most beautiful coastline that the Africa and the world have to offer.  This stretch of coast is better known as the Garden Route.  Some of the highlights include Mossel Bay Beach where we enjoy a seafood feast at a beachside restaurant called The Pavilion.  Other pit stops include Wilderness and the famous Knysna along the way to our first night’s destination in Plettenberg Bay.  In Knysna, we take a short hike to a beautiful spot to enjoy sunset.  Clasmmates Jan, Carmen, Inessa, and I find a nice quiet hostel in this small town after enjoying a fun open-air dinner.

Mossel Bay

Knysna

On the second day along the Garden Route, we begin by enjoying a relaxed breakfast in Plettenberg before continuing onwards.  Our first stop of the day is at Nature’s Valley Beach.  Nature’s Valley includes two parallel beaches, one next to a fresh water lake and the other facing the ocean.  We walk between the two several times enjoying the warm water and the hot sun.  This wide, sandy beach is a perfect start to the day, which ends at Addo Elephant National Park, where there is a bit of excitement upon arrival as we first go to the wrong entrance and then have to travel along a bumpy dirt road before barely making it in time before the park closes.  We quickly order some food to be ready for us after an evening game drive through the park, and all proceed to pile into an open-air truck to see what wildlife we can find.

Footprints at Nature's Valley