Annapurna Base Camp Trek

As I depart this morning for my trek to the Annapurna Base Camp, I am both nervous and excited. There are too many unknowns not to be nervous. What will the weather be like? How cold will it be at night? Will the food agree with me? Am I bringing the right equipment? Will I be affected by altitude sickness? Simultaneously, however, it is all these fears that make the trek more adventurous and more exciting.

Originally, I had signed up for a group trek, but apparently it was only going to be me and another couple, and the other couple had to cancel last minute. I now am going to get a private porter/guide and luckily for the same price as before. Although usually a private trek is preferred and more expensive, I was looking forward to meeting the others in the group. But, after a little research, I realized that I will be hiking along a common trail and therefore will look forward to meeting the other trekkers. I can also have more say in setting our hiking pace. In addition, I have already met Subash, my guide, and although only 23, his English is great, he seems friendly though a little shy, and I feel like we are going to be great hiking partners.

Not Everest?

Initially, my plan was to hike to the base camp of Mount Everest. Why? That way I, when asked, I could say that I “climbed” Mount Everest. But I have chosen not to, and I have chosen to climb Annapurna instead. The path to Annapurna Base Camp is supposed to have fabulous views and as a result has become a popular trekking destination.

Maybe I just didn’t want to hike on a mountain in the middle of Asia that was named after a Brit. That’s a weak excuse, but it is funny that such a prominent world landmark still goes by its original British name to most. The story goes that William Lambton, a lieutenant in the British army was interested in geology was intent on finding the latitude, longitude, and elevation of this great mountain. When Lambton died, George Everest picked up where he left off. Curiously, George Everest did not ever see the mountain that now shares his name and apparently, he wasn’t one for mountaineering either. Tibetan’s call the mountain Qomolangma, the Nepali call it Sagarmatha, and the Chinese call is Zhumulangma. Given it’s geographic location, I feel these groups might have more authority in naming the mountain than the British.

In addition, I received a personal recommendation for this trek from a university friend who did something similar only a couple years ago. And last but certainly not least, it was easier to find a better price for an Annapurna Trek than for one on Everest.

Risks of Mountaineering

In preparation of my small, civilized hike in the Himalayas, I chose to get in the mood by watching a couple documentaries on Everest and reading Nick Heil’s “Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest’s Most Controversial Season”.

The first realization was that death is too much of a reality while climbing Everest. Over the last 15 years, Everest’s trek to the summit has claimed on average about 5 lives. And whether that death comes from falling and sliding down some of the highest snow and ice formations on Earth, or whether it is a slow death from hypoxic hypothermia, the risks of making this journey are very real. According to Heil, hypoxic hypothermia is a slow death where initially hands and feet begin to tingle and throb. Eventually, your limbs begin to ache as if being relentlessly squeezed. The brain will start to starve and swell causing slurred speech, poor balance, and finally persistent dementia. Humans are not meant to exist at 29,000 feet, where the summit of Everest resides.

In Nick Heil’s book, to describe the affects of hypoxic hypothermia, he writes:

“As the deep cold intrudes, nerve endings go numb and the pain recedes as circulation retreats toward the core. Often, ironically, it is around this point where freezing feels like being tossed into a furnace. Victims tear at their clothes, throw away gloves and hats, and frantically unzip their parkas, accelerating the slide. Flesh farthest from the heart—toes, fingers, nose, cheeks—freezes first, death advancing from the perimeter. Skin turns pales with frostnip, white during the full throes of frostbite, red and purple with blisters, and ultimately black with gangrene—cellular necrosis, doctors call it, the point at which living tissue is permanently destroyed.

“In the final stages, limbs become insensate and immobile, freezing into place as your body shunts blood toward the lungs and heart, trying to preserve the vital organs. Vision blurs and darkens. Involuntary shivering ensues, a last-ditch attempt to generate heat through movement. You mind swirls deeper into the subconscious, a deep dream state. A few who have returned from the brink of hypothermic oblivion have recounted their last conscious moments as almost pleasurable. ‘You really do start feeling warming,’ Weather wrote in his memoir Left for Dead. ‘I had a sense of floating. I wondered if someone was dragging me across the ice.’

“The ends arrives a few hours later, quietly, in the dark waters of unconsciousness. You blood runs chilled; most brain activity has ceased. The heartbeat slows, fluttering erratically, a wounded bird. This action might continue for a while, the vessel destroyed by the encroaching cold while the heart presses courageously on. At last the pump shuts down, and with that the limited circulation ceases. Internally, there is perfect stillness, equilibrium returning between a delicately calibrated but dissonant energy field in the form of a man and the larger energy field around him—the mountain, the air. The only movement now is wind, ice crystals skittering over rocks and snow, a jacket flap rustling, a clump of hair, stiff with rime, flicking across the forehead.”

Not to worry though, because in contrast, the Annapurna Base Camp Trek, which I am attempting will only take me to a maximum of 13,500 feet. Still a formidable height that will probably cause me to experience some altitude sickness, shortage of breath, and fatigue, but nothing that will threaten my life or necessitate me to bring my own oxygen.

For a little more of the science of altitude sickness, I did a little research. Higher altitudes come with a limited supply of oxygen, and oxygen levels in our blood are determined by the saturation of hemoglobin. After a certain elevation, this oxyhemoglobin begins to decline. Luckily, as amazing as the human body is, we can adapt in many ways, both short term and long term, to the effects of the decrease in oxyhemoglobin. That said, there are theories which show that above 26,000 feet, most humans can no longer acclimatize. This area has come to be known as the “death zone”.

The oxygen saturation of air at sea level is about 21%, and this concentration remains relatively constant until about 21 kilometers up. 21 kilometers is equal to about 70,000 feet, so I’m not planning on having to worry about anything except 21% concentration of oxygen. However, although the percentage stays constant, the atmospheric pressure decreases exponentially with altitude. This lack of oxygen pressure is believed to be the main cause of symptoms of altitude sickness.

I am aware of the symptoms that can arise at high altitudes and I will be careful as I ascend. If I am feeling really bad, I am prepared to stop and see if I start to feel better. A photograph of the final destination is less valuable if I am not around to enjoy it.

Meditation Rules and Guidelines

As I set off for Vipassana Meditation at the Wat Phradhat Doi Suthep in Chiang Mai, Thailand, I want to record the rules, guidelines and daily routine that I should expect. I have my two sets of loose-fitting white clothing and think I am ready.  I start in a couple hours and finish in a week.

Rules for Meditators:

  1. Abstain from killing living beings
  2. Abstain from stealing
  3. Abstain from sexual or romantic activity
  4. Abstain from wrong speech
  5. Abstain from intoxicating drugs or alcohol
  6. Abstain from solid food after noon
  7. Abstain from diversion and beautification
  8. Abstain from luxurious seats and beds

Meditator Guidelines:

  • Meditators are not allowed to mix the practice with other meditation techniques or yoga, tai chi, aerobics, etc.
  • Meditators are not allowed to smoke cigarettes during their stay
  • Meditators should be polite and respectful to the teacher, and to the monks, novices, nuns and lay people staying at the temple
  • Meditators are not to speak with each other except when necessary
  • Reading, writing, listening to music, using e-mail and telephone etc, are not allowed.

Daily Routine for Meditators:

  • 05:00 a.m. Wake-up time
  • 05:30 a.m. Morning Practice
  • 06:30 a.m. Breakfast
  • 08:00 a.m. Dhamma Talk
  • 11:00 a.m. Lunch
  • 03:00 p.m. Reporting with your teacher
  • 06:00 p.m. Evening Chanting
  • 10:00 p.m. Sleep

Spontaneity vs. Structure

I can attest to the excitement that came with preparing for this trip over the 6 months prior to leaving. From learning about the Balinese tooth filing ceremony and their complicated calendar system, to the USAT Liberty and how it sank, to how the US got so embroiled in the Vietnam War, to how to grow olives in Italy was a significant part of this adventure. Finding Lonely Planet travel guides, looking up other traveler’s blogs, searching for cheap airlines and figuring out how to get from A to B built up anticipation. I am someone who thoroughly loves the feeling of anticipation. It goes back to my birthday philosophy. I love the feeling knowing that my birthday is coming, that it’s one month away, then one week away, and finally days away. I love that anticipation for all that I can and then when my birthday comes, I bring my expectations down as low as I can. No easy task, but birthdays are one day of the year that too often have trouble living up to high expectations. I enjoy the lead-up, I enjoy planning an activity or two, and then I see what happens.

Leading up to five months of travel is slightly different from leading up to November 1st, but the excitement to be attained by the extended runway to what eventually was this trip was just as excitingly filled with thoughts of great potential. So although I sometimes wish I could be more like John Muir and do as he says–“throw some tea and bread into an old sack and jump over the back fence,” I’m not sure I will ever completely be able to do that. Luckily, planning every day’s activities and every night’s lodging for close to 150 days is almost impossibly daunting, which forced me to leave mostly wholes in my itinerary to be filled as I travel.

I also recognize that traveling without a plan requires great confidence and know-how. Having never traveled alone other than to summer camp or a host family in a very planned-environment, I cannot say that I possessed the know-how I would need to have the confidence to travel with minimal planning. Other than just nerding out on the planning, I also did it to assuage some of the fears that I had of this adventure.

Last note about this is that I did not try to eliminate unpredictability. Instead, I learned my options to pick and choose from as I made my way. I feel I chose a route and and some key activities, but have left the rest up to adventure.

Side note: I found a good discussion on spontaneity during travel in Rolf Pott’s book, “Vagabonding: An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel,” a quick read for any new traveler looking for some good advice.

Best Laid Schemes

The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ men gang aft aglay.  -Robert Burns

This quote as written by Robert Burns and later quoted by John Steinbeck, describes how I felt when rainy season hit Thailand early. I knew the rainy season wasn’t normally for another month and thus the risk of flooding and excessive rains was minimal. The Suan Mokkh Meditation Retreat, which was to take place starting on April 1 near Chaiya in Southern Thailand was canceled on account of severe flooding. The story of how my plans shifted goes as follows.

After my train is canceled Monday night, I wake up at WE Bangkok Hostel and start planning how I am going to make my way towards Suan Mokkh Monastery. I first check the Monastery’s website in the morning, and they have a notice on the home page indicating that they are unaffected by the flooding. Unfortunately, trains, planes and some buses have been stopped that would have otherwise ventured southwards. Only the tourist buses are stopped because it’s not economical to charter a bus that tourists won’t want to take because laying on the beach sounds less glamorous when the beach is already underwater. I go to the Bangkok South Bus Terminal and purchase my bus ticket that is scheduled to leave in the evening.

Around 3pm, I’m double checking that the bus is still leaving, that the weather hasn’t worsened too much, and that the monastery is still unaffected. Now, on the monastery’s home page, I read, “The April 2011 Retreat may get canceled.” This felt like getting wait-listed in that I wasn’t sure if I should keep pursuing it or if I should already start moving on. Because of the word “may” in the sentence on the monastery’s website, and because I feel I am a relatively optimistic person, I took my chances and made my way to the bus station, all the while checking the website to make sure the update hadn’t changed.

Fast forwarding to 6pm, I get to the bus station early because I do not know exactly where to go and don’t want to miss my bus. Immediately at 6pm, everything stops, people stand up, and the national anthem is played on the loud speaker. I also stood up, but at the time I had little idea of what was transpiring. I grab some dinner, meet a couple Thais also waiting for the same bus, and make myself comfortable for the 10-hour journey when I get to my seat. I have not always been so lucky, but the bus I picked for this journey had a great chair that reclined almost 70-degrees. However, about 10 minutes into the trip, before I try falling asleep, I check my phone one last time to see if anything new was posted on the monastery’s website, and I read that the meditation retreat has been canceled.

suan mokkh screenshot

I spend a minute or two frustrated and disappointed, and then remember I’m en route to the middle of a terrible tropical storm and it might be 24 hours before I could get back to Bangkok, assuming everything went relatively smoothly. I consider my options. The cost I paid for the bus is now a sunk cost and there’s no reason to pay for a return bus if I don’t have to. I decide to make a fool of myself by roaming the moving bus tripping over seats and bags until I get to the driver. Eventually, I communicate that I want off the bus, and I trip my way back to my seat to get my backpack as the diver pulls over on the side of the highway. I get my things, get off the bus, and am now somewhere near Bangkok in the middle of a highway. Considering the situation, I don’t feel I’m doing too badly.

Within an hour, I get to the Northern Bangkok Bus Station, which I learn is called Mo Chit, find a bus to Chiang Mai, and board another bus, which is slightly less comfortable and heading North. After sleeping decently on the ten hour bus ride, I arrive in Chiang Mai about the time I would’ve arrived at the monastery, get my barrings, find a place to stay, and figure out what there is to do. As any feel-good story should end, I find that there are a couple monasteries near Chiang Mai, research them online, and learn that one has meditation courses. I try emailing and calling with little success. I get over there, ask around, and eventually sign myself up for a week long retreat starting on Monday, April 4th.

I now will experience Northern Thailand for several days, not be torrentially rained on, and will still learn Vipassana Meditation. Sometimes initial plans are not the best laid schemes.

Flooding in Southern Thailand

It’s decision time here in Thailand.  The monastery with the best dates and a meditation program that best fit to my level of practice has now been affected by the flooding.  The rain is supposed to start letting up tomorrow, but the question remains if I try to get down there and take my chances.  Flights are cancelled, trains are cancelled, and now all that remain are buses.

I tried taking a sleeper train last night, but it was cancelled at the last moment.  Apparently, other trains took off this morning, so I am not sure if my train was cancelled for purely weather-related reasons.  Trains, now, however have all been cancelled today that originate in Bangkok and head southwards.  Upon learning my train was cancelled last night at 11pm, I found some other people wearing over-sized backpacks looking as lost as I was, and we rallied to find a good hostel and spend the night in Bangkok.  The Hostel we stayed at is called WE Bangkok and the people were very friendly and the accommodations very clean.

I have considered my other options, which if I am unable to attend this meditation retreat, will probably consist of going to northern Thailand and into Laos for a couple days.  I have to make sure there are no travel visa issues.  Both areas are supposed to be spectacular as I’ve heard from all the people I’ve run into during my trip.

My current plan is to try to get on an overnight bus tonight to the monastery.  I already have my ticket, and I feel I am so close that it is worth a try because I do not know when else I might have the opportunity to take a 10-day mediation retreat.  If the bus is cancelled, can’t make it to the monastery, or the retreat itself is cancelled, which is now also an option as indicated on their website, I will turn around, and do my plan B, which really doesn’t sound too bad.  In the meantime, I would only burn about 24 hours on this adventure to see if I can get down to the Suan Mokkh Monastery before having to restart in Bangkok.

Today I spent playing in Bangkok.  After meeting Joel from British Columbia on Khaosan Road, we shared stories, took a Long Tail Boat Ride through the canals of Bangkok, and later grabbed some delicious Thai food washed down by fresh Coconut water.

Bangkok Long Tail Boat
Bangkok Long Tail Boat

Japanese Earthquake

I did not feel the earthquake here, but am looking out for news regarding who will be affected by the ensuing tsunami. I will be traveling to Malaysia and Indonesia in a weeks time, so I’ll have to wait and see what ends up happening.

The Before Picture

Ready or not, here I go. Filled with the feeling that I’m forgetting something, I end a crazy week of goodbye’s, of packing, of moving, and of wrapping up work. But now, as I sit here in Terminal 2 at LAX waiting for Air China to begin boarding, my mind is really starting to move. Usually when I’m worried about something, I can largely pinpoint what it is, and somewhat lessen that worry. Unfortunately, being worried about the unknown is a particularly hard fear to mitigate. Even when not looking that far into the future, I imagine landing in Beijing and figuring out how to get to the hostel from the airport. For this first hostel, I decided to make a reservation, get an address, and have something concrete to start my trip after landing at 5:30am in the morning, but despite all of that, it still remains unknown how I plan to get from A to B. I know that I will eventually get more comfortable with this type of task as I continue, but for now, it remains exciting.

Before Picture

I’ve packed one backpack that also fits the small day bag in my other hand. In preparing for the variation in temperatures I would experience from China to SE Asia to Nepal to Europe, I embraced the layers philosophy meaning that there are very few clothes that I packed that can’t be worn at the same time. In terms of numbers, I’m bringing 3 short sleeve and 3 long sleeve shirts, one pair of shorts, two jeans, and one synthetic pair of pants. I’ve brought 6 pairs of socks and underwear, a beanie, gloves, and hat. For jackets, I have a fleece, light down jacket, and wind/rain shell, all of which can be layered. I’ll find out soon how effective my packing really was.

Other than possibly having some more facial hair, I’m excited to see the differences between the before and after pictures from this trip, both superficially and psychologically.

Visas – “Check Everywhere You Want To Be”

As the USA has become stricter and stricter letting in foreign visitors, the reverse has also become true.  This is probably due to a combination of countries being frustrated with US stricter policies as well as just taking greater security precautions.  That said, as a traveler, it hasn’t always been an advantage being from the US when applying for travel visas.

To make this point very clear, China asks for a fee along with its tourist visa application.  When reading the chart for how much I owed, there were three columns.  The first column was to designate the number of times I wanted to enter the country and for how long.  The second column was how much Americans would have to pay, and the third column was how much citizens of other countries would have to pay.  As a citizen from the US, I would’ve had to pay $130 regardless of how long or how many times I entered the country.  Citizens of other countries would have to pay only $30 if they wanted a single-entry visa.  China is also one of those places that require you to have a travel visa before arrival.  In most places, I will be able to purchase a travel visa for a minimal fee and a couple passport photos of myself while making my way through customs.  Of all the places I plan to visit, only China and Vietnam required an advance visa.  In the end, I don’t blame these other countries for getting frustrated at the USA’s visa policies because it ends up causing people like me who need to apply for those visas to learn how tough the US really is on foreigners and to subsequently question if that’s right.